One of the most common misconceptions I hear from collectors is that DeLizza & Elster never used rivets.

Like many statements about jewelry identification, that is only partially true.

DeLizza & Elster did not use rivets for swedged construction, a manufacturing method where two major sections of a piece are mechanically joined together with rivets. If you see that type of construction, it is generally not associated with DeLizza & Elster.

However, that does not mean D&E never used rivets.

In fact, rivets appear throughout authentic DeLizza & Elster jewelry. The difference is how they were used.

Rather than joining major structural sections together, D&E used rivets to attach individual decorative components to their jewelry. Once you understand their purpose, rivets become another valuable construction clue when evaluating a piece.

Joining Decorative Layers

One of the most common uses for rivets was attaching one decorative layer to another.

Notice I said layers, not sections.

Many DeLizza & Elster brooches were designed with multiple levels to create the depth and dimension collectors admire today. An upper decorative layer would be positioned over a lower framework, and rivets were often used to permanently secure those layers together.

Attaching Bead Hangers

Another common use for rivets was attaching bead hangers.

Many DeLizza & Elster necklaces feature bead clusters suspended on the main framework.  D&E often attached these clusters using rivets.

Attaching Dangles

Decorative dangles were also commonly secured with rivets.

The rhinestone dangle is attached independently from the main framework. Using rivets allowed DeLizza & Elster to securely fasten these decorative elements while preserving the movement that gives the finished jewelry so much life and sparkle.

Attaching Florettes

Another frequent use for rivets was attaching florettes.

These decorative flower-like components appear on many DeLizza & Elster designs. Some are quite small, while others become major focal points within the finished jewelry.

Rather than being manufactured as part of the underlying framework, these florettes were often attached separately using rivets. This allowed them to be precisely positioned while adding another level of dimension to the design. The florettes often had rivets to hold the central flower and also to hold each rhinestone at the end of the florette.

What Does a D&E Rivet Look Like?

Once you begin looking for them, you'll notice that DeLizza & Elster rivets have a distinctive appearance.

Unlike many rivets found in other types of jewelry, the head of a D&E rivet is usually not solid. Instead, the center is typically open, leaving a small round hole that is visible on the back of the jewelry.

Occasionally you may find a rivet that appears to have a solid head. In most cases, this simply means solder from the surrounding assembly flowed into the opening during manufacturing and filled the hole.

For that reason, collectors should expect most authentic DeLizza & Elster rivets to display a small center hole, while an occasional filled example is perfectly normal.

Typical characteristics include:

• Small, neatly formed rivet heads.
• A visible round center hole on the back.
• The center may occasionally be filled with solder.
• Located only where another decorative component has been attached.

One of the easiest ways to locate rivets is to first identify an attached component—such as a bead hanger, dangle, florette, or upper decorative layer—and then examine the reverse side for the small rivet head with its characteristic center opening.

Rivets Are Not Swedged Construction

This is perhaps the most important point to remember.

Collectors sometimes see a rivet and immediately conclude that a piece cannot be DeLizza & Elster because D&E did not use swedged construction.

The problem is that not all rivets serve the same purpose.

The rivets found on authentic DeLizza & Elster jewelry are attachment points, not structural fasteners joining major sections of the jewelry together.

When you see rivets attaching decorative layers, bead hangers, dangles, or florettes, you are looking at one of the many manufacturing techniques DeLizza & Elster used to create their beautifully dimensional designs.

Understanding why a rivet is present is far more important than simply noticing that one exists.

Looking at the Whole Picture

Like all construction characteristics found in DeLizza & Elster jewelry, rivets should never be viewed in isolation.

No single feature can positively identify a piece as D&E. Instead, experienced collectors examine the entire construction—the stone settings, soldering techniques, wirework, figure-8 puddling, layered design, rivets, and many other manufacturing details.

Each characteristic adds another piece to the puzzle. When considered together, these construction clues create the complete picture that helps us recognize authentic DeLizza & Elster jewelry.

For collectors who would like to explore this topic further, I've created a DeLizza & Elster Rivets Training Album containing numerous examples of authentic D&E rivets, as well as examples of rivets used by other manufacturers. Studying both authentic and non-D&E construction side by side is an excellent way to strengthen your identification skills. You can view the training album here: Rivet Training