One of the quickest ways to recognize authentic Juliana (DeLizza & Elster) jewelry is to stop looking at the rhinestones and start looking at what makes the jewelry move.
Whenever D&E wanted beads, crystal drops, or other articulated components to swing freely, they almost always relied on one simple construction method—a square wire hanger.
Once you learn to recognize this tiny construction detail, you'll begin identifying authentic Juliana construction much more quickly—and you'll also recognize many commonly misidentified pieces.
What Is Square Wire?
Square wire is exactly what its name suggests. Instead of using round wire or a flat metal loop, D&E formed a small hanger from square stock wire.
That square wire became the attachment point for crystal beads, margarita beads, glass drops, hanging navettes and other articulated decorative elements.
How D&E Attached Square Wire
Most of the time, the square wire hanger was riveted to the back of the jewelry.
The rivet created an exceptionally strong attachment while allowing the dangling elements to move naturally.
Look closely at the back of this brooch and you'll notice the rivets securing each square wire hanger.
Once you know what you're looking for, this becomes one of the easiest construction details to recognize.
When Rivets Couldn't Be Used
Of course, jewelry design doesn't always cooperate.
Occasionally there simply wasn't enough room to install a rivet where D&E wanted a dangling component.
Rather than abandoning their preferred hanger, they simply soldered the same square wire finding directly to the setting.
The construction changed.
The square wire did not.
This is an important distinction because collectors sometimes mistake these soldered examples for replacements. They are actually original factory construction.
The Legitimate Exceptions
Like most manufacturing techniques, there are a few exceptions.
Certain Juliana designs made it physically impossible to use either a rivet or a soldered square wire. Rather than changing their preferred construction method, D&E adapted the design by selecting settings manufactured with integral loops.
These built-in loops were a practical engineering solution—not a different manufacturing philosophy.
Notice that only the locations where square wire was impossible use this construction.
When It Isn't Juliana
This is where square wire becomes especially valuable.
Many pieces sold as Juliana use completely different methods for attaching beads and drops.
Some use flat metal loops, round wire, side-mounted loops attached directly to chaton settings, or commercial findings never used by D&E.
These pieces may resemble Juliana in color or style, but their construction tells a different story.
From the front, these pieces can look remarkably similar to authentic Juliana. Turning them over and examining the dangle construction often tells a very different story.
Collector's Tip
When examining jewelry with dangling beads or drops, don't ask:
“Do the beads look like Juliana?”
Instead ask:
“How are those beads attached?”
Construction is often a far more reliable identifier than color, shape, or overall design.
Quick Identification Checklist
✔ Square wire hanger attached with a rivet → Authentic D&E construction
✔ Square wire hanger soldered to the setting because a rivet couldn't be used → Also authentic D&E construction
✔ Built-in loop used only where square wire would have been impossible → Known D&E exception
✘ Flat metal loops
✘ Side-mounted bead hangers
✘ Commercial looped findings used where square wire easily could have been installed
These should prompt you to investigate further before identifying the piece as Juliana.
Why This Matters
One of the fascinating things about studying DeLizza & Elster jewelry is discovering that many manufacturing decisions were remarkably consistent across hundreds of designs.
Square wire hangers are one of those recurring construction details. Once collectors begin recognizing these patterns, they start seeing the same manufacturing “fingerprints” throughout authentic Juliana jewelry.
Next Week in The Juliana Collector
Next week we'll examine another hallmark of Juliana construction—five-link bracelets—and learn how a tiny manufacturing detail can help separate authentic pieces from look-alikes.