One of the biggest challenges facing Juliana (DeLizza & Elster) collectors today isn't identifying authentic pieces—it's recognizing jewelry that has been altered.
Within the collecting community, these altered pieces are often referred to as "restones." A restoned piece begins life as a genuine Juliana design, but somewhere along the way, someone removes the original rhinestones and replaces them with different colors, shapes, or stone types that were never used in that particular design.
At first glance, these pieces can be very attractive. In fact, some are beautifully done. But for collectors, they present a serious problem.
Why Restoned Jewelry Is a Problem
Juliana jewelry was designed in carefully coordinated colorways. DeLizza & Elster favored specific stone combinations that complemented one another and often repeated those combinations across brooches, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and other matching pieces. When a color combination seems out of character for Juliana, it's worth taking a closer look. Collectors often spend years searching for matching pieces, making those original color combinations especially important.
When a piece has been restoned, that possibility may disappear.
Imagine purchasing what appears to be a rare blue and lavender brooch, only to spend years searching for matching earrings that were never actually made. The original design may have been produced in topaz and olivine, while the colors you now own exist only because someone replaced the original stones decades later.
The collector isn't simply missing the matching piece—it never existed.
A Growing Trend
Unfortunately, restoning has become increasingly common over the past several years.
Sometimes stones were lost or damaged, and they were simply replaced. In many cases, the replacement wasn't chosen to imitate the original design—it was simply the closest stone the owner or jeweler had available. While these repairs were often made with good intentions, they still change the originality of the piece and can make identification more difficult for future collectors.
I strongly support proper restoration using the same color, shape, and type of vintage rhinestones as the originals. Replacing missing or damaged stones with correct vintage replacements preserves the integrity of the design while allowing these beautiful pieces to continue to be worn and enjoyed for generations.
However, there is a significant difference between restoration and restoning.
A growing number of pieces are being intentionally transformed into entirely new color combinations. Original stones are removed, even though they are perfectly fine, and replaced with colors chosen to create a completely different look.
While these pieces may appeal as wearable jewelry, they no longer represent the original design created by DeLizza & Elster.
Why It Matters
As more original pieces are altered, fewer authentic examples remain for future collectors and researchers.
Every time an original Juliana piece is dramatically restoned, another example of DeLizza & Elster's original artistic vision is altered. Over time, the company's manufacturing history, color combinations, and design choices become increasingly difficult to document and study.
For collectors who value originality, this matters.
As the owner of the Is It Juliana Jewelry database, I've seen firsthand how altered pieces can complicate the effort to accurately identify and document the designs DeLizza & Elster actually produced.
Learning to Spot a Restone
Fortunately, many restoned pieces can be identified once you know what to look for.
In the examples shown, I compare original Juliana pieces with altered versions. You'll see how changing just a few rhinestones—or replacing every stone—can completely transform a design into something that never existed in the original Juliana line.
Some differences are obvious. Others are surprisingly subtle. Watch for oversized or unusually flashy stones that disrupt the balance of the original design. Another clue can be unusually short prongs. For example, if a thicker cabochon has replaced a thinner original chaton, the prongs may no longer fit the stone correctly.
One current trend collectors should be especially aware of is the widespread use of watermelon (vitrail) rhinestones in restoned pieces. While Juliana certainly produced many beautiful original watermelon designs, these stones are frequently added today to increase a piece's visual appeal and perceived value. If you encounter a Juliana design with watermelon rhinestones that you've never seen before—especially when the watermelon stones are round, navette, square, or other shapes instead of the more commonly encountered ovals—approach it with caution. An unfamiliar color combination featuring watermelon stones deserves extra research before being accepted as original.
The more authentic Juliana pieces you study, the more familiar you'll become with the company's design style, favorite color combinations, and stone selections. That experience makes it much easier to recognize when something simply doesn't look quite right.
Why Disclosure Matters Beyond the First Sale
In my experience, most collectors and dealers who sell a restoned piece are honest about the alterations. The challenge is what happens years later.
Jewelry often changes hands many times over its lifetime. Original paperwork is lost, memories fade, and disclosures made during one sale may not accompany the piece to the next owner. Eventually, a restoned piece may be offered for sale by someone who has no idea the stones were replaced—or worse, be represented as an original color combination.
Once the history of an alteration is lost, the piece can unintentionally become part of the historical record as something it never was, making it more difficult for collectors and researchers to accurately document Juliana's original designs.
For that reason, many collectors choose to preserve original pieces whenever possible and clearly identify altered examples when they appear. Doing so helps protect both future collectors and the historical record of DeLizza & Elster's remarkable jewelry.
Collect What You Love—But Know What You're Buying
Every collector has different goals. Some collect for historical authenticity, while others simply enjoy wearing beautiful vintage jewelry. A restoned piece can certainly be appreciated for its beauty—as long as its altered history is understood.
The key is informed collecting, complete transparency, and preserving the history of each piece.
Collectors deserve to know whether a piece remains in its original factory condition or has been significantly altered. That knowledge allows buyers to make informed decisions and helps preserve the history of Juliana jewelry for future generations.
If a restoned piece is sold, its altered condition should continue to be disclosed each time it changes hands. Maintaining that history helps prevent future collectors from unknowingly purchasing an altered piece as an original design.
In the examples we'll compare authentic Juliana designs with their restoned counterparts so you can learn to recognize the differences for yourself.
The goal isn't to discourage anyone from enjoying beautiful vintage jewelry. Rather, it's to help preserve the originality, history, and artistry of DeLizza & Elster's creations so future collectors will know exactly what the company actually made.
The better we understand and preserve original Juliana construction and design today, the more complete and accurate that history will remain for the next generation of collectors.
Interested in seeing more confirmed Juliana jewelry? Browse our current selection of vintage Juliana jewelry at Our Vintage Rose Jewelry.
Interested in seeing more examples? I've assembled an extensive collection of restoned and rebeaded Juliana pieces in my Juliana training albums in imageevent https://imageevent.com/kjwshopping/detrainingalbums/restones