Bumblebees, Wasps, Glitter Bugs & Dragonflies
In Part 1 of Let’s Get Buggy, we talked about something that is especially important when studying Juliana figurals:
Learn the family, not just the photograph.
That becomes even more important with this next group.
DeLizza & Elster created an extraordinary variety of insect jewelry. Bumblebees, wasps, glitter bugs and dragonflies could all be built very differently, yet certain construction details begin to repeat.
And once again, one of the first places we should look is the antennae.
Look at Those Antennae
This little ladybug is a wonderful place to start because the antennae and legs are impossible to miss.
Rather than simply ending in straight pieces of wire, the metal curls back on itself to form distinctive loops.
That small detail is worth remembering.
When you are trying to identify Juliana figurals, details like the shape of an antenna, the construction of a leg, or the way a wing is attached can sometimes be more useful than the color of the stones.
The stones could change.
The construction often tells us much more.
Now compare that ladybug with this completely different-looking bug.
A large domed cabochon dominates the body, while textured filigree creates the wings. At first glance, the two pieces seem to have very little in common.
But look again at those wonderful curled wire details.
This is exactly why memorizing a photograph can get collectors into trouble. DeLizza & Elster could take familiar construction ideas and use them in designs that looked dramatically different from the front.
This next example takes the idea in yet another direction.
Here the wings are solid textured metal surrounded by rhinestones. The curled antennae remain, but the overall appearance is completely different.
Three bugs.
Three very different personalities.
Yet there are relationships between them if you stop looking only at the stones.
That is how we begin learning a design family.
Bumblebees and Wasps
Some of the larger Juliana insects are much more elaborate.
This topaz example shows just how much dimension D&E could build into a relatively small piece of jewelry.
Large faceted stones establish the body, elongated navettes create the wings, and rows of smaller rhinestones add another layer of sparkle around them.
Rather than simply outlining the shape of an insect, the stones actually become the insect.
And then there are designs that seem determined to use as many rhinestones as possible.
This wonderful fuchsia example is almost sculptural. Large stones, smaller chatons, dimensional sections and multiple projecting elements create a bug that looks completely different depending on the angle from which it is viewed.
Notice the antennae here as well.
The Glitter Bugs
Collectors often refer to another wonderful group of Juliana insects as “glitter bugs.”
It is an appropriate nickname.
These are colorful, stone-filled little creatures that almost seem to have been designed simply to sparkle.
This pink and aqua example is a perfect illustration.
A large round rhinestone becomes the center of the body, while navettes fan outward to suggest wings. Small contrasting stones finish the edges and give the entire bug an explosion of color.
Now compare it with this orange version.
The colors have changed dramatically, but once you stop concentrating on color, the relationship becomes much easier to see.
Look at the head.
Look at the placement of the navettes.
Look at the small stones surrounding the body.
And, of course, look at the antennae.
That is exactly the exercise we talked about in Part 1.
Mentally remove the color.
Then compare the construction.
And just to prove how much changing the stones can transform a design, look at this pastel example.
Soft pink, pale blue and green give this bug an entirely different personality from the fiery orange version.
Yet the family resemblance is still there.
This is why documented variations are so valuable to collectors. Each additional example helps us understand what could change — and what tended to remain consistent.
The Dragonflies
Then we come to some of the most dramatic Juliana insects of all: the dragonflies.
This fuchsia and green dragonfly is a wonderful example of D&E using rhinestones almost like building blocks.
Navettes form the wings.
Round stones create joints and accents.
A line of rhinestones extends down into the tail.
The entire insect is assembled from individual components, yet the finished piece has wonderful movement.
Some vintage dragonfly brooches are regularly attributed to Juliana simply because they resemble a known design. One important clue on certain misidentified examples is metal extending beyond the rhinestone tail.
And dragonflies are one area where collectors need to be particularly careful.
Similarity is not documentation.
When in doubt, turn the piece over and study how it was made.
This purple dragonfly shows a completely different approach.
Large domed cabochons are cradled within substantial metal wing structures, creating a heavier and much more sculptural design.
Again, if you were waiting for every Juliana dragonfly to look like the one you already knew, you could easily overlook something like this.
The Bugs Are Teaching Us Something
These figurals may be whimsical, but they are actually excellent teaching pieces.
Look beyond the color.
Look beyond the sparkle.
Study the antennae.
Study how the wings are formed.
Look at how the body is built.
And whenever possible, turn the piece over.
Once you begin looking at Juliana jewelry this way, you stop searching for an exact photograph and start recognizing the construction vocabulary DeLizza & Elster used again and again.
That is when identification becomes much more interesting.
And we still have more bugs to explore.
Coming Next: Part 3
In the next installment of Let’s Get Buggy, we’ll look at even more Juliana insect figurals, including designs with some very distinctive antennae.
Because with Juliana bugs, even those tiny details can tell a story.
Love Juliana figurals?
Browse our current selection of authentic Juliana figural jewelry at Our Vintage Rose Jewelry.