The ability to identify 2-section and 3-section 20ss chaton settings, commonly known by collectors as Figure 8s, is one of the most valuable clues when determining whether a piece of jewelry was made by Juliana (DeLizza & Elster).
Learning to recognize these distinctive settings is an important skill for every Juliana collector.
But before we go any further, there is one misconception worth clearing up:
The Juliana characteristic is the Figure 8 chaton setting — not “puddling.”
The term Figure 8 refers specifically to the distinctive 2-section and 3-section 20ss chaton settings used by DeLizza & Elster. It does not refer to sloppy solder or a Figure-8-shaped appearance on the back of a piece.
In this article, we'll look at what true Figure 8s are, why DeLizza & Elster began using them, how to recognize them, and — just as importantly — how to recognize several convincing look-alikes.
Why Were Figure 8 Settings Created?
Before looking at how to identify Figure 8s, it helps to understand why they were created.
In his book, Frank DeLizza explained their origin:
“In 1955, my father had J.I. Manufacturing make us a two-section 20ss setting and a three-section 20ss setting, straight and curved. This had two advantages: first, you did not have to solder those settings together, and second, the girls could set the stones faster in the multiple settings than in the single settings.”
The new settings made production faster and more efficient. They also happened to create one of the most useful construction characteristics collectors can study today.
What Does a Real Figure 8 Look Like?
The first thing to understand is that a Figure 8 is an actual multiple-stone setting.
It is not simply a pattern visible on the back of the jewelry.
Look at the Front First
This close-up is one of the clearest ways to see the distinctive prong arrangement.
Unlike a traditional single chaton setting, where the prongs are spaced more evenly around the rhinestone, the prongs on these settings are concentrated primarily along the sides.
Collectors sometimes describe their appearance as “fangs.”
Notice also that these stones are physically joined as one multiple-stone setting.
Here is another excellent example.
Again, concentrate on the small round blue rhinestones rather than the larger stones surrounding them.
The prong arrangement is quite distinctive once you learn what you are looking for.
These are not individual chaton cups that merely happen to have been soldered beside one another. They are part of the specially made multiple-stone setting.
Straight and Curved Figure 8 Settings
DeLizza & Elster used both straight and curved versions.
In a straight section, the chatons have four prongs.
In a curved 3-section setting, the center chaton has three prongs.
That distinction can be extremely useful when examining a piece closely.
For a setting to be the type collectors call a Figure 8, two things are essential:
- The rhinestones must be 20ss.
- They must be in the distinctive 2-section or 3-section multiple chaton setting with the correct prong construction.
If either characteristic is missing, it is not the D&E Figure 8 setting we are discussing.
Seeing Figure 8s on a Complete Piece
Close-ups are excellent for learning the construction, but it also helps to see how these settings appear within an actual design.
Look around the outside edge of this brooch.
Once you know what Figure 8s look like up close, you can begin recognizing their repeating construction even when they are only one element within a much more elaborate design.
Now turn the piece over.
From the back, the connected settings create the scalloped or undulating outline that many collectors associate with Figure 8 construction.
And this is where some confusion begins.
The back can certainly help confirm what you are seeing — but the back should never be your only evidence.
We already examined the front and established that the correct settings are actually there.
Another Front-and-Back Example
The border of this blue piece provides another very clear example of genuine Figure 8 construction incorporated into a finished design.
Now look at the back.
Again we see that familiar connected appearance.
If someone learned to identify Figure 8s only by looking for this shape on the back, it would be easy to assume that anything with a similar-looking outline must also be Juliana Figure 8 construction.
It isn't.
And the following examples show exactly why.
Figure 8 Look-Alikes: Why the Back Can Fool You
This is probably the most important part of learning Figure 8 construction.
There are many vintage settings that can produce a back that looks remarkably similar.
Some even have prongs on the front that initially appear convincing.
That does not make them Figure 8s.
Look-Alike #1: Similar Back, Different Construction
At first glance, the back of this brooch could easily attract the attention of someone who has been taught to look for “Figure 8 puddling.”
There are connected, scalloped settings running through the design.
But now look carefully at the front.
The actual settings do not match the D&E 2-section or 3-section 20ss Figure 8 setting.
This is an excellent demonstration of why the back alone cannot identify Figure 8 construction.
Look-Alike #2: A Very Convincing Figure-8-Shaped Back
[PHOTO 8 — CLEAR RHINESTONE FLOWER PENDANT, FRONT AND BACK]
This piece may be even more deceptive.
Viewed from FRONT, the connected round settings create shapes that could easily be described as Figure 8s
But again, turn it over and examine the actual stone settings from the back.
They are not the distinctive D&E 2-section or 3-section 20ss settings.
The shape visible on the back is not enough.
Look-Alike #3: Multi-Prong Settings
This example demonstrates another important difference.
The back can suggest a Figure 8-type construction, but the fronts of the small rhinestone settings reveal a different multi-prong arrangement.
Once you understand what the true Figure 8 setting looks like from the front, differences like this become much easier to recognize.
Look-Alike #4: Pearls Prove the Point
This may be my favorite example for explaining the problem with the term “Figure 8 puddling.”
Look at the back.
The connected settings create exactly the sort of rounded shapes that someone might describe as Figure 8s.
Now look at the front.
They contain pearls.
A true Figure 8 setting, as we are using the term for Juliana identification, is the specific 2-section or 3-section 20ss chaton setting.
These plainly cannot be that setting.
So although the back may resemble the shape collectors have learned to associate with Figure 8 construction, this is not a Figure 8.
That is why “puddling” or the appearance of the solder cannot be used as the identifying characteristic.
What to Remember When Identifying Figure 8s
When you think you have found Figure 8 construction, don't begin with the solder on the back.
Begin with the actual setting.
Ask yourself:
- Are the rhinestones 20ss?
- Are they in a true 2-section or 3-section multiple chaton setting?
- Does the front show the characteristic Figure 8 prong arrangement?
- Does the construction match the known examples?
Only after answering those questions should the appearance of the back become supporting evidence.
A sloppy or Figure-8-shaped back is not, by itself, a Juliana characteristic.
One Clue — Not the Whole Identification
Figure 8s are an extremely useful DeLizza & Elster construction clue, but they should never be used as the sole basis for attributing a piece to Juliana.
Authentication is strongest when several characteristics work together — settings, construction, stone use, findings, rivets, wire work and the overall design of the piece.
The more genuine Juliana jewelry you study, the easier these details become to recognize.
And once you understand what a real Figure 8 setting actually is, you will also become much better at spotting the many vintage pieces that only look like they have Figure 8 construction.
To compare your jewelry with verified examples, visit the Is It Juliana Jewelry database, where thousands of documented DeLizza & Elster designs can be searched and studied.
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You can also explore Juliana jewelry currently available from Our Vintage Rose Jewelry.