When we look at Juliana jewelry, the rhinestones usually get our attention first. But take a moment to look between them. Sometimes the metalwork is just as interesting as the stones.
This is the beginning of Beyond the Rhinestones, a series exploring the decorative metalwork DeLizza & Elster used to give its jewelry texture, movement and character. Our first subject is twisted and textured metalwork—related decorative treatments that deserve a closer look.
Twist, texture and the shape of a design
Some metalwork has a winding, rope-like appearance. Other examples have a textured surface that should not automatically be described as twisted wire. A photograph can show the decorative effect without settling exactly how the metal was manufactured. In these designs, the metal does much more than hold the stones in place. It creates outlines, curls and accents that are part of the finished composition.
The twisted-rope section of our book, Juliana Jewelry – The Last Generation, illustrates several different uses on pages 181–182. Rope-like metalwork forms a brooch frame, accompanies heart scrolls and florettes, and appears with S scrolls in opaque mosaic starburst pendant/brooch designs. Other examples use it around a center stone, as a frame for rhinestones or as a smaller decorative accent.
It is a useful reminder to look at how a component is used. The same type of metalwork can help define the entire shape of one piece and play a supporting role in another.
Turquoise and gold, with a twist
A new old stock Juliana brooch and earrings set, still together on its original jewelry-store card. Brooch IIJJ#9712; earrings IIJJ#9713.
This turquoise-color brooch and matching clip earrings set is a lovely example to study. Slender navettes, mottled faux turquoise cabochons and clear rhinestones are combined with richly textured gold-tone twisted-rope details.
Look at the gold-tone curves running among the stones. Their texture adds another surface for the eye to follow, while their sweeping lines help give the brooch its graceful shape. The matching earrings carry the rope-and-stone idea into a smaller design.
Different looks in twisted and textured metalwork
Twisted metalwork does not always have the same appearance. These additional examples give us a chance to compare two treatments and see how they work in very different designs.
The copper-fluss butterfly
Copper-fluss butterfly, IIJJ#7236. Follow the textured metal outlines around the wings.
The copper-fluss butterfly shows the same rope-like style of metalwork seen in the turquoise set. Here it helps define the butterfly’s wings, giving us a larger outline to study. White skinny navettes, copper-fluss cabochons and sparkling rhinestones fill the design, but the metal framing is an important part of its character.
A different treatment on the milk-glass butterfly
White milk-glass butterfly, IIJJ#8535: a separate metalwork treatment to compare with the other examples.
The white milk-glass butterfly shows another treatment of decorative metalwork. Its texture has a different appearance from the rope-like style in the turquoise set and copper-fluss butterfly, and from the textured metal in the resin rose and pastel butterfly’s antennae below.
A shared texture: resin rose and butterfly antennae
Resin rose brooch, IIJJ#8648. Compare the textured metal with the pastel butterfly’s antennae below.
The textured metal in this orange and topaz resin rose brooch appears more like the treatment used in the pastel butterfly’s antennae. The rose combines dimensional resin flowers and warm rhinestones with looping metal accents.
Pastel butterfly, IIJJ#9350. Look closely at the textured, curved antennae above the body.
This pink, blue, teal and amethyst butterfly gives us a smaller detail to study: the textured metal antennae, finished with rhinestone tips. The wings are outlined with rhinestone chaining, while the antennae introduce a different surface and a pair of graceful curves.
Although the two designs are very different, their metalwork has a similar textured appearance. One uses it among flowers and stones; the other uses it in a small figural accent. Both differ from the metalwork treatment on the green leaf brooch below.
Another texture in a leaf design
Green rhinestone and gold-tone leaf brooch, IIJJ#595: another example of decorative metalwork.
This green leaf brooch brings another metalwork treatment into the comparison. Textured gold-tone leaves and sculptural flower elements appear alongside emerald-green navettes and Aurora Borealis rhinestones, with sweeping metal stems helping to shape the composition.
Compare the metal details here with the rope-like outlines and textured accents in the other examples. The surfaces and shapes contribute to the jewelry’s character in different ways.
More textures to explore
These examples show some of the variety in DeLizza & Elster’s decorative metalwork, but they do not represent every texture found in Juliana jewelry. There are more designs and treatments to explore.
Browse more twisted-metal examples in the IsItJulianaJewelry database
What to look for
When studying a piece with twisted or textured details, follow the metalwork around the design. Does it form the outer frame? Outline a center stone? Curl between the rhinestones? Does the same treatment appear in the matching earrings?
These details help us understand the design, but twisted or textured decoration alone is not proof that a piece was made by DeLizza & Elster. Identification still depends on the complete piece—its construction, components and documented comparisons.
The next time a Juliana piece catches your eye, give the metalwork a moment of its own. There is often a great deal to discover beyond the rhinestones.
Book reference: Juliana Jewelry – The Last Generation, Chapter 7, Metalwork – Twisted Rope, pp. 181–182.
Explore these metalwork details up close. Shop Juliana pieces with twisted rope, textured accents and sculptural metal designs.