One of the most common statements heard in vintage jewelry collecting is, "If it has five links, it's Juliana." Unfortunately, that oversimplified rule has led to countless bracelets being incorrectly identified over the years.
The truth is far more interesting.
While DeLizza & Elster certainly produced many five-link bracelets, they were not the only manufacturer to do so. Even more surprising to many collectors, authentic Juliana bracelets were also made with four links and six links using exactly the same construction techniques.
The number of links was simply a design choice. The way the bracelet was built is what really matters.
Once you understand the construction, identifying these bracelets becomes much easier—and you'll avoid one of the most common mistakes made by beginning collectors.
The Construction That Makes the Difference
The three bracelets shown below are all authentic Juliana (DeLizza & Elster) examples. Although each has a different appearance, they share the same underlying construction.
Look closely at the folded metal connectors between each oval link. On authentic Juliana bracelets, these folded pieces come together on the front of the bracelet. The joint is then hidden beneath a rhinestone or decorative setting, leaving a clean, finished appearance.
This construction method is remarkably consistent across Juliana bracelets, regardless of the stones, colors, or decorative styling.
Another feature worth noticing is the shape of the connecting links themselves. Juliana used oval connecting links, not round ones, in this style of bracelet. It seems like a small detail, but it quickly becomes one of the easiest ways to eliminate many look-alikes.
When Five Links Aren't Enough
Now compare those authentic examples to the bracelets below.
Although each bracelet also uses multiple decorative links, the construction tells a very different story.
In the first example, the folded connector wraps around the oval link instead of joining together beneath the stone setting on the front of the bracelet.
In the second and third examples, the folded metal pieces meet on the back of the bracelet rather than the front. While the overall style may appear similar at first glance, the manufacturing method is completely different.
The forth bracelet differs in two important ways. Not only do the folded connectors meet on the back, but the connecting links are round instead of oval. Either characteristic alone should cause a collector to question a Juliana attribution.
These examples demonstrate why counting links simply isn't enough.
The Three Construction Details Every Collector Should Check
Whenever you're evaluating one of these bracelets, focus on three key construction traits:
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The folded metal connectors should meet on the front of the bracelet, with the joint concealed beneath a rhinestone or decorative setting.
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The connecting links should be oval rather than round.
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The bracelet should use the large Juliana fold-over clasp attached using the same folded-metal construction found throughout the bracelet.
When these construction features appear together, you're seeing the distinctive manufacturing methods that DeLizza & Elster used on this bracelet style.
Why Construction Always Wins
One of the most valuable lessons in identifying Juliana jewelry is that construction is almost always more reliable than appearance.
Stone colors changed.
Designs evolved.
Even the number of bracelet links varied.
But the manufacturing techniques remained remarkably consistent.
Learning those techniques allows collectors to identify authentic Juliana with far greater confidence than relying on simple rules that have been repeated for decades.
The next time someone tells you, "All five-link bracelets are Juliana," you'll know the better answer:
It's not the number of links that matters—it's how the bracelet was built.
Construction Is Only One Piece of the Puzzle
By now, you may be wondering:
"If a bracelet has the correct folded connectors and oval links, is it automatically Juliana?"
The answer is no.
While the five-link construction described in this article is an important DeLizza & Elster characteristic, it is not sufficient by itself to identify a bracelet as Juliana.
Over the years, I have documented a small number of bracelets that closely follow this construction yet can be ruled out as DeLizza & Elster because of other manufacturing details. In some cases, the clasp construction differs. In others, the stone settings, findings, or assembly techniques are inconsistent with known Juliana manufacturing methods.
This is an important reminder that no single identifying characteristic should ever be used in isolation. Accurate identification comes from evaluating the bracelet as a whole.
Just as having five links alone does not make a bracelet Juliana, having the correct five-link construction alone does not guarantee that it is Juliana either.
The best identifications are made when multiple known DeLizza & Elster construction characteristics all agree with one another.
Continue Your Study
The examples shown in this article illustrate some of the most common Juliana and non-Juliana five-link bracelet constructions. However, they represent only a small sample of the variations that collectors may encounter.
If you would like to study additional documented examples, I maintain an extensive collection of bracelet training albums that compare authentic Juliana construction with similar bracelets made by other manufacturers. Examining many examples is one of the best ways to train your eye and build confidence in identifying these bracelets.
Additional bracelet training examples can be found here:
Collector's Tip
Collector's Tip: Never identify a bracelet as Juliana based on a single characteristic. Five links, correct connector construction, or any other individual feature should always be considered alongside the bracelet's overall construction. The most reliable identifications come from multiple DeLizza & Elster manufacturing characteristics that all agree with one another.